I’d had enough with my sub-optimally placed speakers and (more importantly) wanted to clean up cable clutter around my desk-a haven for lint bunnies and potential angry-cat-attracter. But I don’t have any real way to truly ‘surround’ myself with the speakers, and the extra cabling adds a lot of clutter (even as neatly as I route/coil them).Įnter the Polk N1 sound bar, which I purchased from Woot! at a too-good-to-pass-up $150 (the N1 normally costs closer to $300). This is especially true of my particular setup, where I’ve long used a receiver and 5.1 speaker system connected to my PC through a single optical cable. Polk N1 Sound Bar top controls (Credit – Polk) Sure, you may sacrifice some ‘awesome’ by not opting for an array of accurately-placed speakers all around your gaming hub, but the cabling, mounting, and overall footprint of such an installation is daunting-and often not very practical for a typical desktop PC setup. It appears to be something wrong with the max sr.The Polk N1 gaming sound bar is a fairly cost effective and space-efficient 5.1 surround sound bar that’s perfect for the living room or desk.Ī sound bar is a great way to provide relatively big boom and decent surround effects in a space-efficient package. I took advantage of the sale on the mini ax sale and the moment I set up the Polk mini ax it immediately recognized Dolby content with no hesitation and have not lost it. This would happen in the middle of playing Xbox with sound active (no quiet moments) and also mid cable show so it has occured on both Xbox and via the HDMI switcher. I notice everytime it is lost my screen and input would flicker and the information window would pop up as if there was an HDMI input change and it would also temporarily change the picture quality lose the Dolby logo on the TV than return. I went back to the first set up which worked effectively and the usual when I would lose Dolby content after a undetermined short amount of time using it. I've found that when the soundbar is handling the HDMI switcher it actually won't switch sometimes depending on the power status of the device such as the switch being docked and charging and trying to watch cable. I tried using the HDMI switch built into the Max SR. HDMI 3 is a rocket fish HDMI splitter withģC TDS Android TV cable box (redundant Android TV device) HDMI 2 is the soundbar which is the only dedicated ARC per the manual. I'll also add I was using a Bose TV Speaker on HDMI on the TV with no complications until I got the Max SR. I spent 4 days trying everything as far as settings go on my Philips which is my primary tv. I've used auto mode, bypass, etc in the sound settings and also individually tried all the EDID of 2.0 to 2.1 in the HDMI settings. I thought initially it was maybe the Android TV which did not have native passthrough (though it does have bypass maybe one in the same). I don't have either of the model numbers but both are newer models from the past two to three years and each bought in December of 2022 It won't return automatically unless a reset or power plug pull occurs. I've replicated this problem between an LG wit EARC and ARC and my primary tv a Philips Android TV with ARC and it performs the same on both with Dolby content being lost after anywhere between 3-30 mins until a reboot or reset of bar. I even tried the Ethernet to make sure it got the most up to date since I couldn't confirm the most up to date firmware until customer service confirmed it. Hell I had to deal with the same problem as everyone and took approx 10 tries to set up with Google home app before it was successful. Polk recommended a hard reset and than to return the soundbar to the store. Want to add that I am having the identical problem using Magnifi Max SR with up to date firmware of 136 which I confirmed with Polk Support.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |